Have you ever been to Chiangkhan? It is one in my must-visit list. What I heard about Chiangkhan is a small town in Loei province with old building, friendliness and it's going to be cold.
I remembered, it has been a tough week at work that I barely have time to prepare for this trip. My brother suggested me a rough plan to have a night in Chiangkhan and another night on Phuruea and I definitely agree because it will be my first time camping.
When the day comes, I meet my friend, her friend, and one of my colleague at Mo Chit Bus Terminal. It's going to be 4 of us for 3 days and 2 nights (excluded 2 overnight buses). The only thing I know is that we have 2 destination to get to. However, we have reserved a room in Chiangkhan and a pick-up for travelling in Phu Ruea which makes me chill. We start off our first night on the bus. It's going to be about 10 hours to Chiangkhan.
Good Morning, Chiangkhan. We arrived early in the morning and think we should check-in to deposit our belonging before go out for breakfast. We hire a Skylab (taxi) to our guesthouse for 20 Baht per person.
- Skylab
Arrive at the guesthouse, Thai Chiangkhan, the guesthouse owner take very good care of us. We left our belonging at the guesthouse and grab its bicycle and go out for breakfast. Since the room is not available yet, the owner said we can come back to check-in later anytime. Another one on our list, Suwanrama, Chiangkhan's former theatre. It was decorated with filming stuffs. We had some tea and egg pan. After breakfast, we have a little bike tour around the town and back to the guesthouse to return the bicycles.
Getting lost in Chiangkhan is impossible but getting stuck in Chiangkhan is possible.
- Suwanrama
- Morning Tea
- Egg Pan
We plan to go a little farther out of town. We called a Skylab for a round-trip tour which cost 100 Baht per person. The first place is Phu Kwai Nguen Buddha's Footprint Temple (Wat Phra Buddha Baht Phu Kwai Nguen) where people make merit and pile up the stone and make a wish. Usually, we will see lots of Temple Dog in temple area but here, there are lots of cute, fatty rabbits. Next destination is Kaeng Kood Kuu. He leaves us here to chill out for an hour or two. We hire a boat to chill out in Khong River. We enjoy the view of the 2 countries and people living along the river.
The more we left something behind, the more we open up for something new.
- View at Silver Buffalo Temple
- Kaeng Kood Kuu
- Just across the river
After we had lunch at Kaeng Kood Kuu, the driver send us back to the guesthouse. We properly check-in to our reserved room and take some rest. Recharge ourselves for another long walk. It's been a little tired and we want something sweet. Our goal is to find the Deep-Fried Dough Stick. It is warmer in the afternoon but not burning. We visit many souvenir shop along the walking street, sending post cards, and take pictures with this little town. It is very fascinating.
- Milk Van
We decide to take a sip of coffee at Mueng La Mer, located on Lower Srichiangkan 9, attracted us with the old post box. The owners are very nice and friendly. He told us about the town. It has been a crowded town, a busy jetty. Chiangkhan and Laos are just like a next door neighbor. Since we have the highway, people move out for better transportation one by one and left the town abandoned. Once a group of architecture student came to study the town plan, the name of this town is widely spread among teenagers. It's a non-makeover hang out place. The old house is real and the night is chill. It's a peaceful place for relaxation. Some of them moved in and build up small business, mostly souvenir such as t-shirt and magnet. Some redecorate the building and make it a guesthouse for rent or use their houses as a homestead for travelers. The more visitors came, the more it grow.
- Old Post Box
We spend a couple hours at the cafe, listening to the local, listening about their life, and playing with his dog, Mr.Jod-Mhai (means letter). I think I'm falling in love with this town. I like listening to his story but it's time to get going.
- Mr.Letter
Across the road, located the town market and there it is. A man behind a giant frying pan who is kneading the dough. Here we are, the Green Bean Deep-Fried Dough Stick that we are looking for. Actually, there are many kind of filling you can choose. It is crispy and the filling has a great taste. Delicious, valuable for a long walk.
- Green Bean Deep-Fried Dough Stick
Come back to the walking street, so lively. Lots of people come out of nowhere, filling up the whole street. Shops are open and people shopping. There are many kinds of handmade and souvenir you can find. Many kinds of local food stalls along the road. We end up having dinner at Huen Luang Prabang which is popular for fluffy streamed bun but sadly we didn't get a chance to try. After dinner, we walk back to our guesthouse. The cold wind blow from the balcony to the front door, telling us it's not the right time to go to bed. We hang out at Vic Mae Khong, a hang out place on the opposite of our guesthouse. The weather is great so we order some beers with barbecue from the street. Sitting there and put all things behind, chilling. It's about 10 pm, people began to disappear. Shops are closing. The street become silence but we still hungry. We came back to the street, finding something to feed a roaring stomach. The only thing left is Toast Stick. A thick grilled toast covered with butter and sugar, very delicious. Along the road, there are some group of teenagers, sitting out in front of their rented house, drinking, playing guitar and singing. I'm sure this trip will be in touch forever.
- Chiangkhan walking street
- Phi Ta Khon
- Toast Stick
Another morning in Chiangkhan, we woke up early to make merit. People line up along the road waiting for monks. Usually, in central part of Thailand, we offer streamed rice for monks but, as much as I know, in Chiangkhan and Luangprabang they offer sticky rice. It feels great to see a family, grandparent, father, mother, and their kids making merit together. Helping their parent offering food while teaching their kids to do the right way.
- Early morning in Chiangkhan
- Making Merit
I love the view from our balcony. We still have a couple of minute till the Skylab arrived. I run up to the balcony and found a stunning view. The mist covered all over our neighbor, so beautiful. People came out fishing. Last night we also spend the rest of the night on this balcony. Talking, sharing and watching cloud moving slowly across the dark sky covering with millions of stars. The night is so chill.
- Laos in mist
The Skylab picked us up a couple minutes later, taking us up to Phu Thok. It stop at a parking lot and it is quiet crowded. We have to drop off here and take another local van to the top of the mountain. Every curve does the van passed, the more beautiful mist we see. Again, I love the view up here. Any edge we stand on and looking down, there are sea of mist everywhere beneath. It feels like we are standing on the cloud. Let our thought swimming in the sea of mist. We photograph every single angle of the view, as much as possible. Sitting there for a while and decide that we should go back for breakfast. We still have a long journey waiting.
- Sea of Mist, Phu Thok
The Skylab send us back in town. We choose to drop off for Rice Noodles Soup for breakfast. Hot soup in a cold morning is superb. Rice Noodles Soup (so called Khao-Peake-Sen) is like a bowl of boiled rice + noodle. The soup is made in porridge style which contain noodle that is made from rice, sounds confusing but delicious. While some of us still enjoy Egg Pan with toast and coffee. We also grab a box of custard bread next door as a snack.
- Rice Noodles Soup
Almost late for the bus to Loei, we went back to our guesthouse, grab our stuff, and jump on the Skylab which take us to Chiangkhan bus terminals. We took the last row of the bus seat and fall asleep. For about an hour, we arrived at Loei bus terminal but this is not our destination just yet. We have to take another bus since there is no direct bus from Chiangkhan to Phuruea. We transfer to a mini bus. Well, actually it's something between a mini bus and van. It is a little smaller than mini bus but seats are less comfortable than van. However, we arrived in Phu Ruea safely and Mr. Vinai, our kind pick-up driver is already waiting to send us to the camp. We have a quick lunch at Phu Ruea Market and buy something for our little barbecue party tonight. We got corn, mushroom, meatball, egg, and some snack to survive this very cold night. We got two tents and rent some sleeping bag from the park. Actually, the park provides lots of facilities. You can find most of camping stuff up here. Pitching a tent, prepare for barbecue and waiting to watch the sun saying goodbye to the blue sky. I love to watch the sky slowly change its color.
- Pitching a tent
- Sunset
After the sunset, it's time for barbecue. We light up the brazier, started to grill our food but finally... a cup of instant noodle for each of us. The most memorable part of this night is that we grill the egg without putting the hole on it and a loud BOOM, the egg blow up through my friend head. We all laugh and so as the neighbor tent. Well, I can say everyone(around our tent) look like a professional camper. For me, I had fun being the beginner of anything new.
The night is getting cold that I get a little headache when I don't wear the hood. We lie down outside the tent, talking, listening to soft music, and watching wind pushing the huge cloud away. I was hoping it won't rain because I'm afraid our tent won't survive it and it's cold enough for me but it's going to get colder tonight no matter what.
- Charcoal Brazier
Mr. Vinai said he will pick us up about 5 AM and take us to the top of Phu Ruea to see the sun rise. My alarm clock wake me up at 4 AM. So that we can have time to pack up our belonging and leave. I wake my friends but no one response, seems like everyone is curl themselves up in the sleeping bag, hiding from cold wind which is torturing me now. I open the tent slightly to look around. It's very cold and wet on the ground but the sky is full of stars which makes me warm inside. I've never seen this much stars before. I'm impressed.
The sun is rising and it's time to go. We quickly packed up and head to the top of Phu Ruea. The thermometer up there telling us, it's 9 degree Celsius, no wonder. We don't see the sea of mist here as expected because the wind blow so strong. We take lots of pictures. The mountain, trees, bench, and sunlight created it's own beauty. You don't need to be a professional photographer to get one of your most beautiful picture up here.
- Bhuddist in morning light
- Topmost of Phuruea
- Taking Photo
We had breakfast on the way to Phu Luang Wildlife Sanctuary. I thought we are coming to see some wildlife animal but actually we came here for nature trail and I'm definitely not disappointed. Although, we don't see any animal but the nature trail contains many beautiful plant that I have never seen and won't find it normally. Mr. Vinai is a former national park officer, he guide us around. We are looking for White Rose but it doesn't bloom much at the moment. The blooming white rose will cover all over the mountain in summer but it's winter when we were there, we missed it.
- White Rose in Phu Luang
After we had lunch on Phu Luang, Mr. Vinai drop us off at Phu Luang police station to wait for Phu Ruea - Loei intercity bus. I feel a little worry while saying goodbye because we don't know how long will the bus passed by. Luckily, another 5 minutes later, the bus arrived and send us back to Loei bus terminal.
- A long way
- Loei Bus Terminal
It's almost evening at the bus terminal, we hire a Skylab into the town and had dinner at Olly's Cafe and come back for another overnight bus. Safely home early in the morning, take a nap and back to reality.
